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The Juergen Teller big MANIA.

Juergen Teller for Marc Jacobs - AW12

First time I've looked at Marc Jacobs's collections, I didn't even notice the clothes. I was stunned by the realistic bluntness of the image, a surprise "real-life" different from all the fussy sexy standards of fashion shoots. Models seemed vulnerable, fragile and drawn in their deep considerations. The photo was not about the collection, the focus was rather on the emotion emerging from the characters.

Even if I got used to Juergen Teller's style, I still feel his campaigns are unique, standing out in magazines or windows of a luxury rue St Honoré. Their spontaneity in a reportage way of shooting that focuses more on the human is very distinctive. Juergen Teller goes beyond trends, telling an intemporal story while providing a good observation of his time.

He has been shooting for many other brands than Marc Jacobs. Recently, he has worked for Barneys, Louis Vuitton, Moschino or Céline. When I look at these shoots, I'm not seing the brands' DNA. I'm seeing Juergen Teller's DNA. And because I've discovered him via Marc Jacobs, I'm also thinking Marc Jacobs. This is the strength and the limits of his work.

Of course, the images are strong and you notice them. But they are not specific to the brands. Not telling its message or enlighting its unique positionning. May be it's a new way to communicate ? Consumers being saturated with messages and images are bored by brands who assert themselves non-stop. On the contrary, they may be grateful to Louis Vuitton and Céline (among others) to provide them with some true beauty free of ego-brand-statement. Also note that supporting artists and respecting their freedom is historically peculiar to luxury brands. Working with Juergen Teller might be a good way to claim this exception. The issue is that luxury is also synonymous with avant-garde and singularity. Not sure Juergen Teller is still rare.